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Black & White Digest #16
We are a full service studio creating campaigns & content for modern brands.



THE PUBLISHERS



We are all publishers. The means of production have simplified so everyone is able to 'create' and distribute to an infinite audience. But with talk of #contentfatigue where is the quality, originality & aspiration?



What about the craft of beautiful design & print, or considered curated feeds and cross platform publishing? Here we present some of our favourites which demonstrate that creativity and an understanding of what engages your audience are still the cornerstones of marketing.


IDEA LTD
The 'coolest publisher on the planet' apparently, selling vintage & new art/ fashion/ culture books - via physical at DSM, online through their website, digital via depop, social via instagram. All with big numbers, all looking great, all with niche products. Brand as publisher or publisher as brand?









FREE
Skate culture always makes it's own rules. Which it then breaks. Leaving marketeers confused and skateboarders happy. Free is primarily a printed title made by people in the scene, distributed only via skate stores and is as popular as a new Palace drop. The website and social feeds are packed full of user generated video & articles. The business model is entirely simple, traditional almost, but its authenticity cuts through the noise.












MARNI
Fashion brands have always had aspirations of elevating their product catalogues to art publishing pieces. The highly invested printed look books of fashion houses in the 80s & 90s are exactly the kind of books that sell on Idea Ltd (sic) for £000s. In our digital age check out Marni for best avant garde fashion image making and join their 1.3million followers.




WEST COUNTRY MODERN
In a natural move harnessing our interests & skills, we have started an editorial arts publishing venture focused on rural photography - an attempt to reframe the usual presentation of our bucolic landscape. We have released 3 books, selling in Barbican, Tate Modern, Photographers Gallery, Margaret Howell amongst others. Click through to buy direct from our website.





RENTAL MAGAZINE
Photography, of course, still reigns supreme on social channels - instant visual hits to entertain or inspire. Many 'gallery' instagram feeds exist populated entirely of user generated submissions. Rental is a good one, consistently high quality global goodness to keep your feed artful.







KEXP
Not strictly publishers, but a not for profit music platform out of Seattle that host & stream so much amazing live music that it has become the go to channel for all indie music. With almost 2 million subscribers across channels this resource successfully relies on donation to present themselves. Click through for the mighty Idles.




JUNGLES IN PARIS
Redefining the traditional travel blog and photojournalism, these film makers publish beautiful, slow short films from real global explorations. Prompted via email newsletter, their 'video postcards' are careful captures of a world free of modern commerce. Refresh your eyes.






DRAW DOWN
Celebrating the culture of self publishing and the experimentation of graphic designers, Draw Down is an American publisher & retailer that is a healthy example of the huge growth in independent publications of the last ten years. See also the British 'Self Publish be Happy' and other new pillars of the modern creative industries.










HATO
The first printers also housed the typsetting, finishing & publishing of books, a seamless 'making' process in the realisation of the printed piece. In many ways Hato Press bring us back to this model - with their specialisation in Risographic print, their artworking skills and extensive workshops program. They offer designers & customers a full publishing service ideal for low run, illustrated work & collaboration.





AESTHETICA
Publishing with a capital P, a very good looking cross platform set up documenting visual culture. Big on photography, good on film, nice on fashion, sexier than Cereal less tricky than Frieze. Best in print and on IG.



JJMARSHALL ASSOCIATES
In effect we are brand publishers - we create campaigns and content for fashion and culture clients. With in-house expertise in idea generation, design & all aspects of image making, we specialise in a full service offer. Click through for latest London neighbourhood hand held films made for Folk Clothing.




PRESENT & CORRECT
Retailers of humble stationery & accessories shouldn't be social media megastars, but this duo have created such a distinct aesthetic with a unique engaging tone of voice, that almost half a million on pinterest, twitter & instagram fawn over their fine curation. Black and white really doesnt do justice here.








HERE PRESS
For the craft of specialised book design with print production love, this independent London studio run by art director Ben Weaver only makes exceptional products. In turn these are only sold by exceptional galleries. Check out new release about the Thamesmead estate featuring photography by Tara Darby.









If you would like to talk about how we can help position & present your brand in an effective, engaging and beautiful way feel free to contact us.
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Black & White Digest No 015
A collection of themed visual notes from a London Creative Agency.
This issue inspired by GOOD CHAIRS.


Props & Icons.
Make us shoot indoors and we'll find a chair. A really good chair (eg the Eero Aarnio Bubble Chair above for our 49 Winters). As props they lend design weight & inspire model posture. But as objects they are the most accessible and beautiful pieces of product design that we have. Here's some of our favourites:
Chair No.31 by Alvaar Alto.
The poetry of bent plywood by all round Finnish mid century master, Aalto. Highly coveted in Hampstead.

Manga Chairs by Nendo, Japan.
From recent series of multiple chair design based around the lines and grids of manga comics.
Felt Upright Chair for Established & Sons.
Designed by Reed & Delphine Krakoff, a more than simple, grey piece of quiet Beuysian pleasure.

Oak Ply Chair from junk store.
Our recent summer morning lookbook for Folk paired a 60s ply chair in a Georgian basement in WC1.

#9 - 100 Chairs in 100 Days by Martino Gamper.
One of the most inspiring design experiments of the last 10 years, where then RCA student Gamper amassess various old broken chairs and uses them to create a new design per day for 100 days.

Steelheart Collection by Peg Woodworking.
Geometric, handwoven designs across simple metal frames, part African part Brooklyn. V.Good.


Four seat shell tandem by Charles & Ray Eames.
These 2 have to be included and their airport fibreglass shells with formica table is midcentury fire.


Fishing Chair available from amazon
For less than $40 invest in a wonderfully simple tubular folding chair complete with stereo rod supports.

Stacking School Chair Primary form and function.
Shot in bright orange for our Les Basics AW17 in a Haringey dance studio. Robin Day inspired.


DSC106 Stacking Chair by Piretti for Castellini.
The best workplace chair since 1965, with Italian engineering love and multitude of upholstery colours.

Rag Chair by Droog design.
Very 90s, very Dutch, very good product design from avant gardists using 15 sacks of rags for comfort.


Chair No.14 for Thonet.
From 1859, and some 50 million sales later, this is the pleasing populist Euro bistro classic.

Hillestak Chair by Robin Day.
Our Studio Nicholson shoot at The Garden House, featuring classic Beech chair from 1951. Very right.

Hembury Chair by SolidWool.
Ingenious furniture and material from West Coutntry modern artisans, replacing fibreglass with wool.

Philosophy Chair by NN Design.
Japanese consideration with simple glass form and painted black outline.
Minimalism with soul.

Xosted Lounge Chair by Philip Caggiano.
£10,000 worth of Italian/ American polished stainless steel tubular sculptural look-at-me furniture.


Cesca Chair by Marcel Breuer.
When one considers these iconic chairs were designed almost 100yrs ago, you soon realise that Bauhaus guru Breuer was a visionary. Plagiarized ever since, this is the Stan Smith of furniture design.

XL1 Chair by Michael Marriot.
Made with reclaimed oak and tea chest plywood, this 1991 prototype sets Marriot's humble design tone.


Found Chair on location.
Shooting HighSnobiety editorial this year in derelict glasshouses and found this beauty (the chair).
Sylph Chair by Atelier Deshaus.
Playful & refined + modern + handbuilt - we re happy with that mantra. Line drawing chairs from China.

Les Arcs Stacking Chair by Charlotte Perriand.
Originally designed for ski resort in 1960, this is organic modernism with their evolving leather patina.


CH23 Dining Chair by Hans Wegner.
Combining subtle & elegant furniture design and managing Arsenal football club is a rare skill.

Hillestak by Robin Day.
In full glory (tho better in colour), the beech frame & teak veneer ply chair - gentle English modernism.

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Black & White Digest No 014
A collection of themed visual notes.
This issue inspired by FINE MEN.

We thought it relevant, during this lazy season of shorts, flip flops & t-shirts, to highlight
an alternative list of mens style icons, lest we forget the references that inspire us.
*Spoiler alert* No Steve McQueen, David Beckham or Miles Davis.
Kevin Rowland Maverick 'tache.
The Northern soul, the Ivy League, the jazz beatnik - a fine set of wardrobe changes for a restless spirit.

Frank Ocean Nu west coast style.
Part Tupac, part Usher, Frank Ocean is refined hip hop with art & soul.

John Waters American anti jock.
Dressed up or down, plays out American pop cultural history with camp disregard.

Edwyn Collins Glaswegian indie.
Astute sense of blue eyed soul with Orange Juice, wrapped up in fey teenage chic.

Yohji Yamamoto Japanese modern master.
With the air of an art historian and attire of a master craftsmen, he is the intellectual style heavyweight.

Jacques Cousteau Nautical utilitarian.
The French approach to workwear with chambray, denim, beanie & pipe.

Mark E Smith Anti fashion troubador.
Like Jarvis Cocker on an industrial estate, he is no compromise growing old disgracefully.

Nicolas Anelka Progressive Football.
Belligerent, stylish, well travelled ex Gooner with that beard, those glasses and good tracksuits aplenty.

Geoff McFetridge Designer Dad.
Former Beautiful Loser and all round NYC hipster, turned gentle LA man o' taste.

George Harrison Understated Beatle.
Managed transition from 60s to 70s whilst effortlessly looking good, most often in denim.
Terry Hall Midlands suedehead.
Epitome of front man cool, minimal rude boy style and knowing nonchalance.
Jamel Shabazz Street sports.
The documenter of emergant 1980s NYC hip hop culture, the sweet spot of music, style & image.
Ivan Lendl East European on court steel.
Sunken eyes, fuck you attitude, graphite racquet, adidas sportswear. Immense.

Gene McDaniels Mod favourite.
Jazz and soul nice guy, managing politics and pop with sartorial excellence.
Chris Lowe Casual with a brain.
The Pet Shop Boy who understands cultural significance & fetishisation of mens brands.

Raf Simons Modernist darling.
Less is more for this master of effortless cool; A Belgian with a love for all things Factory records.

JJMarshall Associates Creative Agency
We are image makers, designers, brand builders; creating iconic style for fashion brands.
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Black & White Digest No 013
A collection of themed visual notes.
This issue inspired by beautiful marques.
The notion of branding – denoting ownership & creating recognition, is as old as trade itself. But some, like the above, just do it so well.
From physical on product applications to screen-based animation, developing a brand identity still requires design judgement, technical skills and marketing awareness.
As brand's ambitions evolve from product manufacturers to global publishers and facilitators, creative marketeers must be well versed in all aspects of content & media.
At JJMarshall Associates we help fashion clients modernise and consolidate with a one stop service of strategy & execution.
We work both at the conception of projects and on rebranding – establishing identities, guidelines, creating platforms and generating content (Ark Air is a military clothing supplier entering the premium casualwear market).
Click through to our website to view other recent commissions and identity design, demonstrating our love of strong shape & simple typography.
Graphic design breeds its own very special type of obsessive, not helped in least that it's a male dominated arena. But the langauge of marques cross boundaries and cultures to inspire and unite Mac users around the globe.
Favourite twitter/ instgrm feed is from the kings of stationery @presentcorrect where they highlight eg the rare compendium of 1973 trademarks and symbols, a collection of Russian radio insignia or Japanese prefecture icons. Niche but nice.
Surprisingly few songs dedicated to graphics, even though they share deep connections with baseline grids and the occasional flourish. Aside from German punk rock there is only one artist who has captured the spirit of typography: Kylie.
During her tricky late 90's period, she released 'German Bold Italic' with Japanese dance legend Towa Tei. Expressing such sincerity in her geisha performance and font love that this is yet another reason why she remains a, umm, sans serif icon.
Follow for fashion, architecture, landscape, design & jackhuahuas @jjmarshallassociates
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BLACK & WHITE DIGEST No 012
A collection of themed visual notes.
This issue inspired by M O V I N G I M A G E.
JJMarshall Associates is a Creative Agency based in London. We design and produce beautiful & effective communication.

Televisual

Traditional fashion photography is alive and well - print ads and billboards are still the big money platforms for beauty, glamour & dreams; lavish productions still indulge the handful of global luxury brands with the investment & atmosphere of a different era.
But the digital realm, the democratisation of equipment, the change in shopping habits mean a radical shift today in what assets are needed to help sell the garments we dont really need. Stories need to be told in frequent, economic, clever ways through a multitude of different media. We originate compelling ideas and shoot photography alongside moving image alongside copywriting alongside design. It's seamless - one process, one team for a multitude of channels & applications - click the images & links for audio visual treats.

Kenzo, Jonze


Subvert the glamour, embrace the medium - a genius combination of Spike Jonze & Kenzo means a win-win for this stylish, anti-romance fragrance spectacular (4min). If you spend,
spend well. Jonze is the creative director's creative director, with his 25yr showreel of cool,
more of him later.

49 Winters


We put moving image at the heart of the identity and assets we created for the launch of this luxury outerwear brand. Using layers of video content we created rich product-specific guides and context to demonstrate the 'style x science' inherent in the collection.
French

Then there is the French, where character and style are always played out in film
or on runways... favourites APC create irregular gems, especially with the American-friendly Louis W colabs (3min).

Andersons

We embraced the artisan skills and charisma of traditional Italian leather work for
x3 films (3min), plus the photography, website, look book etc we made for new client Andersons. An exercise in telling a heritage story which looks forward as much as back.

Yout'


Palace do it well, phenomenally well. They own self deprecating skate humour and lace it with daytime TV graphics, the best riders and deep house. Knowing. Some 350K views on this Reebok promo, but they have many more across their channel.
Folk

We created a series of gentle, slo-mo product studies for Folk shot in the late summer sunshine of coastal Dorset (1min). These part of several simple productions dovetailing perfectly with their tactile, modern aesthetic.
Choreography

Balenciaga show how to combine theatre and fashion in this beautiful choreographed piece for their Resort collection (3min), one of many showing the big talent of Nicolas Ghesquière.

Wrangler


We work with large and small clients, niche designers to world-renowned brands.
Last year we made a pan Asian campaign (3min) for long standing client Wrangler,
all based around motorcycle journeys
. Our Washington state lumber yard was another
favourite (2min).
Dior Homme

Willy Vandeperre is an image maker extraordinaire, equally adept with any lens he so chooses. The ground breaking work with Kriss van Asche for Dior Homme (3min) raised the bar for how 'fashion film' can look and how it's used. The subsequent 'Underpass' (3min) also strong.
Skate

Them skaters love to film, by it's nature it demands moving images and clothing companies have been trying to use their effortless cool for their own means ever since Glen E Friedman documented the initial scene in the 70s. That man Spike Jonze created the blueprint in '91 for how the lo-fi skate films have looked ever since (VHS anyone?) with Mark Gonzales et al (24min). Adam Kimmels valley longboarding in suits is good (10min) Whilst everyone from Hermes (2min) to Man About Town (3min) have cashed in with crass endearing style.


Les Basics

We created a Fr'Anglais minimal monochrome identity for this new London menswear
brand and sewed a slo-mo video thread throughout the comms. Including new season
look book with serene Mac (3min).

Skandi


Not forgetting the Scandinavian high street progressives, H&M. This Russian split screen treatment for their 'conscious' range (2min), mmm. Try also the knowing, cool craft of Cos and their audio visual games (3min).
Arcade Fire

OK not a fashion film, not even a music video - an edit (6min) from, ahem, Spike Jonze short 'Sound of the suburbs'. Spirited, naturalistic, cool, dark... his third entry in the JJM digest. As this mailer wont cover music videos, there will be no mention of Beyonce's 'Formation' or Pet Shop Boys/ Bruce Weber 'Being Boring'. Phew.

Real Film


So lastly not even a music promo, but a 1960s educational video (28mins). From Canada. Made with such restraint, style, charm and location gold that it has to be included in this collection of good audio visal things. Paddle to the sea (*Denton).









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BLACK & WHITE DIGEST No 011
A collection of themed visual notes.
This issue inspired by  M E N S W E A R .
JJMarshall Associates is a Creative Agency based in London. We design and produce beautiful & effective communication.    

Menswear Formation


 

Menswear is in our, ahem, genes. With over 15 years of creating content, campaigns & strategies for some of the biggest (and smallest) brands on the planet, we know our YMC from our LVC; so as fashion’s unseasonal seasonal calendar kicks in we play fantasy wardrobe with our preferred menswear brands and select our spring summer ’16 team. Acknowledging the strong sportswear & utility stories plus the continuing importance of Japan & America, we layer them all up in an ambitious 3:3:4 formation.
 

Consistent Performance


White Mountaineering are our uncompromising, reliable characters between the posts. The Japanese outdoor fashion brand keep Stone Island and 6876 out of the team due to their adidas collaborations and enigmatic status. Even the socks are great.
 

Core Quality


A defensive back line which includes toughness, versatility and utility.
At left back Carhartt, born in America raised in Germany,  the very acceptable face of workwear. Creating menswear staples that withstand skateboarding and private views. APC colabs don't hurt either...
 

Muji is the much improved, seasoned centre back. Lending accessibility and quality to their unbranded Japanese credentials. Check out their twin fabric shirting and customisable pumps.
No name demure.

 

The new comer (and our new client) is modern essentials brand, Les Basics, a North European hybrid which does ordinary very very nicely; invest in a black cotton waffle tee. Watch them graduate to more forward positions through the season.
 

Creative Class


Experience and art in our midfield.
In the centre of the wardrobe team (Iniesta if you like) is the undeniable depth and class of the Swedish Acne; they are the whole package, skilled through garment design to publishing they make a big impression from denim to tailoring. On fire.
 

To compliment the two tall creatives, we bring in a humble brand & manufacturer whom play consistently with high quality classics: John Smedley go about their business of supplying great knitwear from Derbyshire for an International style audience. Wonder if they would make a sea island cotton team kit...
 

In right midfield are the detail-obsessed Folk (another new client); their Caledonian, artful verve creates unique casualwear that justifies their national adoration. Important signing, replacing APC in the European staple department.
 

Dynamic Character


We combine maverick flair with dynamic vision in the final third.
Busy New Yorkers, Public School, are deserved centre forwards with their always-contemporary collections mixing Americana and high fashion. DKNY consultancy must be keeping them busy but doesn’t seem to affect their feel good presentation and downtown persona. 
 

On the left wing, whipping wicked crosses and the occasional overhead kick is LA’s Palm Angels. A book before being a brand, armed with a super good website and creating a ludicrous luxe skate collection. they are the crowd pleasers with Palace in the dug out.
 

Matthew Miller is the LCM hero: runways with intelligence, awareness and attitude. Treating fashion as cultured product design he eschews glamour gimmickry for wearable wisdom.
The next Raf.

 

On the wing is brand new Japanese label, Blackyoto (new client) who are thoroughly innovative in their entire garment creation - mixing vintage utility garments with a kimono dying process ; they operate with pace and tactical awareness.
 

Inspirational Management


Not forgetting the people behind the scenes we propose Beyoncé as formation coach and Rei Kawakubo as the boys manager. Fantasy win win.
 

Iconic Stadium


.. and will need a sophisticated arena in which to perform, so we propose the Prada Stores of football stadia: La Bombonera, home to the mighty Boca Juniors.

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BLACK & WHITE DIGEST No 010
A collection of themed visual notes.
This issue inspired by the INTERNATIONAL.
JJMarshall Associates is a Creative Agency based in London. We design and produce beautiful & effective communication.    

Internationalist


The world is indeed getting smaller. As digital platforms help breakdown trade & cultural differences all brands have the potential to be global players and the qualities of integrity, originality & relevance are more important than ever. Blessed with working in the world's designated language of business and based out of London, the city standing on the meridian of
East and West, we are ideally placed to create stylish campaigns & content which resonate
with progressive consumers everywhere.
 

Soviet


Gosha Rubchinskiy is a true original, creating his own genre and becoming Russia’s counter culture poster boy. His combination of naivety & social realism lends his work the style and authenticity that has seduced European & Asian fashion fans. This introduction of an undocumented Russian youthful spirit into global streetwear & image making has made him a kind of Soviet Larry Clark of the 80s terraces.
 

PCF

Our work with Japanese denim brand MasterCraft Union is a meeting of like minds as we demonstrate how modern premium denim can be presented and interpreted to create one of the most desirable jean labels in Europe. We shot the latest campaign at the 1968 French Communist party HQ designed by radical Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, filmed by Swedish/ Spanish Boris Hallvig & modelled by the Osakan Taka. The Internationalists would be proud. 
 

Epic


Taking the whole notion of identity, land & ownership, this soon to be released book documents the incredible journey of artist Alex Hartley’s discovery and then securing of a splinter of Norwegian land and it's journey to the South West of England as part of the 2012 London Olympiad. Nowhere Island/ Now here is land is a beautiful photographic documentary of that unique International project from conception through to completion. Enquire.
 

Bungalows


No one embraces aspirational modernism like South America. That continent’s elite see refined, concrete & glass as the zenith of sophistication, damn right. Brazil and Argentina have been leading the way since the 50s with Buenos Aires and Sao Paolo reaping the rewards, but this hotel development in Uruguay looks like an International dream with a complex of the best looking bungalows in the world.
 

Youth

If British monthly style titles were the natural home of street style in the 80s & 90s, daily blogs have taken up the mantle and are where you find the world's young fashionistas. Check the influential Luka Sabbat (and A$AP mob) whose sub Buffalo style is all about Hood by Air, Raf Simons, Margiela, Off White  - the post hipster uniform. He mixes chic classic European menswear, with progressive streetwear to create the template for Asian moneyed youth.
 

Public


Occasionally there is a piece of populist public ‘art’ that is so engaging that cities clamour to install it in their commerce-heavy public spaces. The kooky perspective-defying work of
Leandro Erlich
succeeded, as does the recent see-saw installation in Montreal which combines participation, fun and visual ingenuity - the most shareable of on and offline qualities.
Hoping that Lateral Office installation travels to Europe this year.

 

Inclusive


With the muslim female fashion market said to be worth €350million it’s no wonder that Western designers are recognising the benefits of designing products for all women. D&G are the latest runway designers to create a specific collection with their signature decorative style. More affordable is the recent Uniqlo collaboration with Hana Tajima showing a more everyday solution to ‘culturally sensitive’ clothing; whilst Capsters football hijabs begin to address ‘modesty sportswear'. From an academic perspective, Reina Lewis’ recent books examine the sociological and cultural implications of Western brands wooing the emergent cross-faith transnational youth.
 

Wanderers


Turning our attention from Europe to Asia for the iconic American jeans brand, Wrangler. Continuing our mission to create natural, stylish adventure campaigns, this commission from the APAC region focused on their ‘True Wanderer’ initiative, where customers are encouraged to record their expeditions in Wrangler gear. Shooting stills & video in India & Thailand we combined culture and landscape to inspire the local denim heads.
 

Elegante


Our most favourite elegant and original global fashion campaign comes from Céline.
Matching the sophistication of the moderne clothing, the ads demonstrate such demure confidence as to belittle their ostentatious competition. Whether on billboards in Seoul, shopping malls in Dubai or the back page of The Guardian, this is luxury image making at its very best.
Shot by Juergen Teller & art directed by Peter Miles.

 

Tumblr


Our preferred social channel is tumblr, creative-industry-arama and barely any selfies.
Amongst the many photographers we follow is French town & country Lionel Aléze who documents his local Lyon environment with such calm, exhaustive respect that we have become very familiar with the streets & countryside of the Eastern French city.
 

Type


The International Typographic Style is the most influential movement in graphic design of the
last 100 years. Born from Russian, German & Dutch art of the 1920s and developed in Suisse
in the 50s, it's the style that has become the shortcut to 'cool' in contemporary commercial design.
Flat, grid based, sans-serif type, minimal, juxtaposed with photography and phew, no drop shadows in site. We subscribe.

 

Sounds


Is there a musical genre more knocked than World Music? Check this fearless, strong statement of intent from Stella Chiweshe. She took the Bhundu Boys baton of Zimbabwe music and humbles us with art & sincerity; an African mix of PJ Harvey & Ian Curtis perhaps.
 

Visual Diary


At home, work or travel we photograph the scenes and moments that inspire us, with the aim of making the ordinary beautiful.





 
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BLACK & WHITE DIGEST No 009
A collection of themed visual notes.
This issue inspired by  S H O P P I N G .
JJMarshall Associates is a Creative Agency based in London. We design and produce beautiful & effective communication.    

Shops


Often described in elevated terms as ‘retail’ or in faux Americana as ‘stores’, we have
compiled (not ‘curated’) a list of our favourite fashion shops. These physical spaces
where we visit, dream, purchase are the inspirational conduits between maker and customer.
They mean more than interactive screens with baskets; at their best they provide a stimulating,
efficient, special, spending experience and at worst are divisive & ugly cells.
As a studio dedicated to creating ideas & content for brands, we always work with the
physical as well as the printed and digital in mind.

 

Arts & Science


Tokyo and its many distinct neighbourhoods have the most prolific, crafted, clever shops on the planet. Indies, boutiques, own-brand, department stores all executed with love and originality.
We could have chosen any number of examples but have gone for studious Arts & Science
who spread themselves through several different sites and emphasis - womens/mens/ footwear/ lifestyle etc and create communication, events, exhibitions to offer a thoroughly modern,
holistic shopping culture.

 

Hermés

The recent refit of their London store proves that this iconic French leather goods manufacturer understands very well the modern notion of luxury. The impeccable use of materials, shape, line & colour make this the true jewel of Bond Street - the acceptable face of the uber wealthy.
 

Palace


Still in its infancy but with such experienced, smart brains behind this skateboarding label that their nonchalant confidence is entirely justified. Skate stores shouldn’t be minimal, shouldn’t
have marble-mosaic floor, shouldn’t feel like you’re in LA but thats what they’ve done on central London’s new most fashionable street: Brewer St, Soho; where the sex industry is rapidly
being replaced by food & clothing.

 

10 Corso Como


A maverick institution which helped invent the notion of the ‘concept store’.
Well known in Europe with their Milanese artful, beautiful courtyard home and edit of
beautiful things, Carla Sozzani's vision is now taking hold in Asia with sites in Beijing,
Seoul and Shanghai. The shopping experience here is complete: joyful, surprising
and elegant - old money kooky. Molto Bene.

 

Army Surplus


Provincial European and American towns still usually have some clothing shop salvation -
the local army & navy surplus store. With racks of warm, dry, well-made, good value apparel
& accessories plus occasional brilliant one-off finds which 6876 or Nigel Cabourn would
be proud of. Whilst Silvermans, East London, has the most comprehensive array of.. everything, check out Xsport in East Midlands for a warehouse of outdoor booty.

 

Haven


Vancouver is unnaturally blessed with many good menswear stores, its geography and young demographic, perhaps, facilitating great taste and interest. On a recent visit we were mighty seduced by Haven, an open plan warm wood shrine to all things avant garde sportswear.
Having sidestepped the ample heritage movement you’re left with the choicest, Asian hipster brand list that everyone in the know references. V.Cool.

 

John Lewis


More recently the UK's high street success story, but have been wonderfully consistent in their approach to comprehensive product offer, simple merchandising, quiet marketing and excellent empowered staff & customer service. We have written at length about their branding & window displays, but perhaps it's the Barbara Hepworth Winged Figure that looks down over Oxford Street that makes this such a perfect model of democratic shopping.
 

Dover Street Market


Comme des Garcon's concept department store, where the masters of avant grade invite their favourite peers to come join their shopping party to create the most radical fashion environments in London, New York, Tokyo. Installation and sculptures double as merchandising areas/ props, store assistance double as models/ muses. We created a launch installation for adidas adicolor range in the London branch, a pop art window special. Visiting/ shopping here washes
your eyes
and opens your mind.

 

The Bureau


The UK (still) has plenty of multi brand menswear stores who carefully ride the fashion/style tightrope for the 20 & 30 something straight man in regional towns and cities.
Sometimes owned and run by highly knowledgable, worldly, tasteful folk who take punts
and risks on random labels…which helps our industry stay progressive. One such is
The Bureau in Belfast, launched in 1989. The shop has seen modest expansion, set in open
plan adjacent units with a cool, gents club feel. Complimented with highly informed/
informal assistance + great Anglo/ American label selection. V.Good.

 

Cigue


OK, not a shop but the current retail designers du jour who have helped created an entirely
new shopping aesthetic with the ever expanding Aesop. This highly modern success story uses
product trialling, tea making, lab equipment, foliage etc to set their product in context and
most importantly each shop is site specific, no lazy roll outs here.
Cigue are also responsible for the ‘organic minimalism’ of the Isabel Marant stores and French modernism of Études Studio. Tres Bien.

 

Alternative


Of course, we buy fashion items in increasingly non traditional environments. The rise of the
pop up store (or was it guerilla shop?) has been prolific during last 10 years and there are hundreds of savvy examples; we like to think that we created one of the first of the kind when
in 2003 for adidas, we took an empty unit on Carnaby Street for the Wimbledon fortnight filled it
with grass and archive tennis shoes and sold limited edition Stan Smiths etc
Factory stores have always been a more local, cost effective route to buying premium price items but as manufacture has left Europe there are fewer opportunities… but John Smedley in Derbyshire and Trickers in Northampton for good, trad British kit.
Sample sales have turned from jumble sales for friends&family to a premium ‘club’ invite only, good looking affairs. Curate Private Sales do a great job of this updated shopping culture.
Then there is the distinctly personal, designer-maker approach whereby as needs must, customers are invited to the offices/ studios themselves to purchase goods in the very room from which
they are devised. Check out the highly tasteful world of ‘Several’ in the fashionable
Rochelle School, London E2.

 

Wuhao


This Shanghai cultural experience, in which shopping is a by product to the exhibits, was named by *Wallpaper as one of the '20 reasons to visit China'. Fashion mixes with furniture, art, objets, accessories etc to create a rarified temple-like environment surrounded by bamboo gardens.
Proof that challenging, crafted, experimental retail is not just a Japanese commodity.

 

Stella Dallas


Not forgetting pre-loved, vintage, antique or well, second hand clothes shopping. Executed well, step forward 10ft Single by Stella Dallas, they are literally treasure troves that will consumer hours of your life. American-made workwear and sportswear has generally lasted better than any other casual clothing in terms of style and quality.... indeed 90% of mens casualwear is pretty much based on it. Relive the American dream in Brookyln in this exemplar.
 

Music


Before we get too smug, our musical accompaniement is from indie pop’s Johnny Boy who
take aim at over-consumption. Quite right of course.

https://soundcloud.com/401kmusic/01-you-are-the-generation-that-bought-more-shoes-and-you-get-what-you-deserve
 
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*|MC:SUBJECT|*
BLACK & WHITE DIGEST No 006
A collection of progressive visual notes.
This issue inspired by N E W N E S S .
JJMarshall Associates is a Creative Agency based in London. We design and produce beautiful & effective communication.